Cranes on the Platte River

Cranes on the Platte River

Between February and April, more than half a million sandhill cranes gather on the PLatte River in central Nebraska, staging for a journey that ends as far north as eastern Siberia.

By Jonathan Rosen
Published: January-February 2013

Once upon a time, before humans diverged from chimpanzees or the Grand Canyon had been carved out of its rock, an extraordinary bird walked and flew the earth in the area we now call Nebraska. The bird stood some four feet tall and had a wingspan of more than six feet. Its Miocene neighbors included the saber-toothed deer--which sounds like a Monty Python joke but really existed--and prehistoric versions of the rhinoceros and the camel. The camels and the weird deer are gone, but astonishingly, the bird--or its structurally identical relative--is still around. We know it as the sandhill crane, and while this most ancient of birds would be a marvel in any form, it happens to participate in one of the great mass migrations on the planet, making a journey through space that is as remarkable as its journey through time.

Between February and April, more than half a million sandhill cranes crowd through a short stretch of the Platte River of central Nebraska, staging for an odyssey that ends as far north as the tundra of eastern Siberia. Along the Platte, having already flown some 600 miles from the American Southwest, they will gorge themselves on the abundant remains of numerous cornfields, gaining 20 percent of their body weight in anticipation of the thousands of miles still before them. But despite their frenzied feeding, these social birds--who mate for life and remain behind if their mate is sick or injured--still find time to do the thing for which cranes are most famous: dance.

Departing New York City for Omaha in peak crane season, I can't help marveling at my own lucky journey through space and time. Ever since a stranger's chance comment about the birds of Central Park led me to an introductory birdwatching class at New York City Audubon 15 years ago, I have been in love with birds and perpetually grateful to them for opening up to me the hidden wild places in my city, my country, my planet, and, most surprisingly of all, myself.

From Omaha I drive 182 miles west to Kearney, Nebraska. The moon is nearly full, massive and orange. Part of me simply decides that this is what happens when you fly to the middle of America to look at cranes; things get bigger and more beautiful, or at least noticed with a new eye. But the next day the moon is on the cover of the Omaha World-Herald, and I learn that it is a "supermoon," closer to the earth than at any time in the past 20 or so years. Back home I might have seen a fat moon rising over the Empire State Building, but to have the oldest birds on the planet intersect with it, and with me, I need to travel 1,300 miles, to a particular place at a particular time.

The island I live on is sometimes called "the crossroads of the world," but that depends on your definition of "world"--and "crossroads." Look back into the 19th century, add in the overlapping trails of Pawnee and Sioux, millions of bison, the Oregon Trail, the Union Pacific Railroad, and the Central Flyway for migratory birds, and suddenly the middle of Nebraska, which is smack in the middle of the United States, has a claim to make as the literal and spiritual intersection of a vast array of competing forces.

I'm in a hurry to meet the birds, so I welcome the 75 mile-per-hour speed limit on Interstate 80, which follows the contours of the Platte River--just as the Mormon Trail, the Oregon Trail, and the Pony Express once did. In those days Nebraska was considered part of the "the Great American Desert," little more than a wild corridor to greener pastures in the west. When Francis Parkman passed through the Nebraska territory in 1846, making notes for The Oregon Trail, he observed, along the banks of the Platte, the "shattered wrecks of ancient claw-footed tables" that desperate emigrants had, in exhaustion, "flung out to scorch upon the hot prairie."

The unrelieved sameness of I-80 does little to recall those days. Only the big moon evokes the world as it was--and of course the cranes, which I begin to see amid the stubble of cut cornfields along the side of the road, 200 or so yards back from the highway. They leap into the air, squabble, take off, land, toss the occasional stick into the air with their bills, bow from time to time, and most of all feed with their heads down, their long necks extended.

Corn-made fuel has a complicated history for humans, but raw corn, which can make up more than 90 percent of the sandhill crane's diet, will power the birds for several thousand miles, and I shudder to think what would happen if more efficient combines are created that eliminate the gleanings the birds feast on, though their omnivorous opportunism--they'll eat seeds, berries, insects, earthworms, mice, snakes, lizards, and frogs--has preserved them in the past. But the concentrated food of farms helps compensate for the lost foraging areas and fast-running rivers once abundantly at their disposal.

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Cranes Need Help Now!

I have seen recent news articles on television and the Internet that WI is asking for public comments on a nonlethal repellent that can be put on corn seeds to keep the cranes from eating it. Apparently they eat the seed once and then are repelled from eating it again. It just breaks my heart that this is now being considered. It seems like every time we get a species (any species bird or other) back from the brink of extinction that we then put a hunting limit in place or try and drop the numbers down in some form or manner. I realize that farmers have a concern about their crops, but something just doesn't seem right about the way we go about taking care of our animals.

GMO corn

I worry how GMO corn will impact wildlife

Sandhill Cranes

What do you suppose the cranes ate before we started raising corn out here?

Sandhill Cranes

The Sandhill Cranes migrate through Star Valley, Wyoming every spring and fall by the hundreds, if not thousands. The major crop is hay, but there are also plenty of insects, mice, voles, frogs, snakes, and Three Rivers full of fish. I have photographed them pecking in the farmer's field behind our property, and in the nearby Alpine Elk Reserve where they spread out hay each winter to feed the Elk. But I think the main purpose for the Cranes flying through Star Valley is to gain altitude for their long flight south. Heavy winds flow across the Palisades Reservoir into the Three Rivers area in Alpine and cause an updraft as they hit the mountain peaks there. I witnessed several flocks of White Pelicans circling over that area to gain several thousand feet of altitude before they turned and flew south. That's how high the Cranes are when they fly over our home during migration. Sometimes so high I can barely see them. The only way that I know they are there is because their raucous calls echo off the mountain peaks all the way. There's no sound like it.

Sandhill Cranes on the Platte River


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